Note: This page is not updated after exhibit semester has ended. Traditional feminine silhouettes were challenged, essentially de-constructed, to give way to a … Every issue from 1892 to Current, including articles, ads, editorial content, fashion shoots. Deconstruction was first seen as a rebellion against fashion in the 80s and the acceptance and movement into the domain of fashion was deemed contradictory and deconstruction was seen as another superficial trend. Search for other works by this author on: © The Author [2012]. Jean-Paul Goude is one of the world's most brilliant and unorthodox image makers. These references to deprivation led to the designers being described as pioneers of the ‘aesthetics of poverty’, a term coined by fashion curator Harold Koda. Derrida states that his use of the word deconstruction first took place in a context in which " structuralism was dominant" and deconstruction's meaning is within this context. A fashion and trend forecasting service with a clean tablet/phone friendly interface. To purchase short term access, please sign in to your Oxford Academic account above. What is Deconstruction? One of the most important phenomena in fashion, which practically forced the researchers to rethink their former language, is deconstruction. Deconstruction fashion is meant to challenge the traditional perception of beauty. DECONSTRUCTION IN FASHION Deconstruction was a revolutionary approach introduced by Frenchman Jacques Derrida in the study of literature. Register, Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford. Lace Skirt Sequin Skirt Apocalyptic Fashion Fashion Show Fashion Design Vivienne Westwood My Wardrobe Ready To Wear Vogue. Contact. (Tortora & Keiser, Dictionary of Fashion, 4th ed.). unstitched seams or seams, darts, and/or hems on the outside of the garment, "unfinished" aspects, some with chalk markings, monochromatic palette, often black, gray, white, ignoring body proportion norms, oversized proportions, unusual volumes, adding clothing parts (e.g., sleeves) in an atypical way (e.g. FITDIL is an Internet-based digital repository database of approximately 64,000 digital images intended for both research and instructional use by FIT students and faculty. The previous fashions of their parents were considered old, outdated and a form of oppression. Deconstruction Fashion Deconstruction Theory Deconstructivism. Graduating from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 1981, Ann Demeulemeester (and her contemporaries in the Antwerp Six) transformed global fashion with an aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a polemical approach to luxury trends. Building on previous academic writings on the topic of deconstruction fashion in general and Margiela’s work in particular, the article argues that Margiela’s play with the function of clothes and accessories, their unfinished nature and denial of seamlessness not only dovetails with Jacques Derrida’s refusal of closure and stable meaning, but also with Mikhail Bakhtin’s ideas of the carnivalesque and the ever-becoming unfinished nature of the grotesque. Photoshop. Don't already have an Oxford Academic account? A group of Japanese designers, led by Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, played with the idea of androgyny and embraced unevenness and imperfection while simultaneously creating beautiful clothing. Breaking the conventional rules, Kawakubo continues to push boundaries, perfectly marrying fashion with art in the most unexpected of ways. Please check your email address / username and password and try again. Typical garments may have some, but not all, of the following characteristics: Use to look up theme, shape, detail, designer and get runway photos and inspiration for your designs! At first I wondered if I was looking at deconstruction art, a late 20th century movement where the theory of “Deconstruction”, is a form of semiotic analysis. database, which has many more definitions of deconstruction; see link below. Influenced by punk, she founded her label in 1985 and imbues her designs with a strong narrative and rebellious spirit. (Tortora & Keiser, Dictionary of Fashion, OR "... loosely applied to any rejection of the usual conventions of construction ... and, The Penguin English Dictionary, online in Credo. You do not currently have access to this article. Trend reports & forecasting for fashion. The ‘Natural hair movement’ was formed to create space for black folks particularly with tighter, coarser curls across the diaspora. "A design movement ... with designers who took elements of garment construction and made them more visible in the final garment." i-D examines Rei's complex and conceptual world, digging through the magazines archive and re-visiting interviews which explore how the fashion house continues to challenge the Western ideals of body shape and garment construction. He was Grace Jones's Pygmalion, creating unforgettable images of her, from andryogyne to cyber-superwoman to supreme diva. All rights reserved. 1. A movement which had … Saved from 4.bp.blogspot.com. This comprehensive and groundbreaking volume includes an insightful interview with Yamamoto, as well as a roundtable discussion with some of his key collaborators, among them Nick Knight, Peter Saville, and Marc Ascoli. Gems                Jewels                Pearls, Gold          Silver          Money          Coins. Packed into 120 pages is biographical and personal information as well as imagery from photographers including Paolo Roversi, David Bailey, and Emma Summerton, plus interviews with Jamie Huckbody, Josh Sims, and Terry Jones. It gives the impression of the fragmentation of the constructed building, commonly characterised by an absence of obvious harmony, continuity, or symmetry. 1. If you originally registered with a username please use that to sign in. It is characterized by fragmentation, an interest in manipulating a structure’s surface, skin and non-rectilinear shapes which appear to … Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It details the design process that is an intrinsic part of Gehry's revolutionary approach: his use of non-traditional materials and his sensitivity to the environments of his buildings, his method of envisaging a building through semi-automatic drawings and hand-made models. It furthers the University's objective of excellence in research, scholarship, and education by publishing worldwide, This PDF is available to Subscribers Only. 2; Iss. Prof. Dr., Altınbaú University, Faculty of Fine Arts and Design Abstract This research aims to investigate the role of fashion in the context of the deconstruction of gender stereotypes. Graduating from Antwerp's Royal Academy of Fine Arts in the 1980s, Martin Margiela (and his contemporaries in the Antwerp Six) transformed global fashion with his aggressive restatement of traditional fashion design and a polemical approach to luxury trends. Suggestions & sources are often still valid & helpful, but remember to check for newer books, websites, etc. Punk fashion quickly became seen as deconstruction and a cultural waste and the punk subculture turned their backs on the fashion norms of the time. Like Vogue, every issue from 1867 to Current. You could not be signed in. think about other ways to dissect and dismantle your garments & design ideas! In this way the techniques of deconstruction as employed by Yamamoto and Kawakubo became inextricably bound within social and political frameworks. Deconstruction, in a literal level, conotates the reversal of construction, thus the unfinished or destroyed look of garments. Introduced by philosopher Jacques Derrida in the late 1960s, deconstruction was adopted as a design movement by architecture, graphic design, fine arts -- and, of course, fashion. Francesca Granata, Deconstruction Fashion: Carnival and the Grotesque, Journal of Design History, Volume 26, Issue 2, May 2013, Pages 182–198, https://doi.org/10.1093/jdh/eps050. For full access to this pdf, sign in to an existing account, or purchase an annual subscription. Deconstruction, form of philosophical and literary analysis, derived mainly from work begun in the 1960s by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida, that questions the fundamental conceptual distinctions, or “oppositions,” in Western philosophy through a close examination of the language and logic of philosophical and literary texts. This book provides an inside look at the design process from a craftsman who creates pieces prized for their originality, delicacy, and daring. Don't already have an Oxford Academic account? Introduced by philosopher Jacques Derrida in the late 1960s, "A design movement ... with designers who took elements of garment construction and made them more visible in the final garment.". It does so through a close analysis of a range of garments and accessories by the Belgian designer, with a particular focus on his oversized and enlarged collections, which in their strategies of alterations of scale, garments’ inversions and play with functionality are aligned with a Bakhtinian understanding of the grotesque as the ultimate expression of the carnival spirit. Sometimes mentioned, with some garments or collections representative of deconstruction or in some way related: Vivienne Westwood, John Paul Gaultier, Alber Elbaz for Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Christian Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel,  John Galliano, Junya Watanabe - perhaps you'll find others! deconstruction definition: 1. the act of breaking something down into its separate parts in order to understand its meaning…. New users must register for an account. She begins with a history of the term "deconstruction," describing its original terminology as a philosophical theory used to critique language and codes. Most users should sign in with their email address. Students must create an account and re-activate their account every 90 days: click on re-activate account. backwards), asymmetry, uneven hems, irregularity, overlapping, imperfections, rips, tears, shredding, distressed. Selected and arranged by Goude himself, they present a gallery of artworks that have redefined advertising and brand photography as we know them. Japanese designers (from the 1980s): Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Yohji Yamamoto, From the Antwerp Six (from the 1990s): Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, and another Belgian designer: Martin Margiela (Maison Martin Margiela). Around 500 images, including many working documents, are on show here, from inspired doodles to final images. Over the past 40 years Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art, ideology and integrity, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. Between Script and Ornament: Delftware Decorated with Pseudo-Chinese Characters, 1680–1720, The Responsive Environment: Design, Aesthetics, and the Human in the 1970s, Rummage: A History of the Things We Have Reused, Recycled and Refused to Let GoArtifacts: How We Think and Write about Found Objects, Born in the USA: The Cigar Box Guitar, Object Displacement and Performative DIY, Receive exclusive offers and updates from Oxford Academic. Women's Style .. 2, no.1, 1998. This collection brings together hours of videos that retrace the history of fashion, clothing, and costume worldwide. Working first with the house of Gaultier, Margiela absorbed the radical design of Japanese deconstruction, making it wholly his own with the founding of his own label in 1988. This article examines the work known as ‘deconstruction’ fashion or alternatively as ‘deconstructionist’ or ‘deconstructivist’ fashion. Since the surfacing of the term ‘deconstruction’ in design journalism in the mid-1980s, the word has served to label architecture, graphic design, products, and fashion featuring chopped up, layered, and fragmented forms imbued with ambiguous futuristic overtones. Thinking of relating 'treasures' to 'deconstruction'? The forms often disturb our thinking and evoke uncertainty and unpredictability. Lace Skirt. Through research in museum collections and libraries, it identifies the way the term began to be used in relation to fashion within the English language and traces its initial reception within the press to Bill Cunningham. Saved by Adam Sullivan. Lace ... Vivienne westwood deconstruction. Introduced by philosopher Jacques Derrida in the late 1960s, deconstruction was adopted as a design movement by architecture, graphic design, fine arts -- and, of course, fashion. E-books with quick info on a variety of topics. Fashion Theory The Journal of Dress Body & Culture 1998 / 02 Vol. One of the most defining characteristics of deconstructivism is that it challenges conventional ideas about form and order, as if the designs tried to liberate architecture and art from preconceived rules. Deconstructivism is a movement of postmodern architecture which appeared in the 1980s. Martin Margiela first got the fashion world thinking in 1989 with a collection that challenged what luxury could be. It is a theory of literary criticism that questions traditional assumptions about certainty, identity, and truth; asserts that words can only refer to other words; and attempts to demonstrate how statements about any text subvert their own meanings. The tension is highly poetic, and her clothes reveal many layers of soul. School of Art and Design History and Theory, Parsons the New School for Design. Bill Traylor and American Folk/Outsider Art, Roman Cieślewicz, René Gruau, Jean-Paul Goude, RIchard Kilroy, Damien Blottiere. Focuses on material innovation. The De-Construction Movement, which started in 1970s and gained momentum in the 80s, refers to the era of collective avant-garde artistic expression in fashion. This is a celebration of the architecture of Frank O. Gehry's Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. It looks like you're using Internet Explorer 11 or older. E-books,scholarly articles, extensive image collection. Fall 2016. Yohji Yamamoto is one of fashion's continual innovators and this stunning book is a fascinating insight into his working approach and relationships with other creative practitioners. Known for her elegant tailoring and dark yet glamorous aesthetic, she created a serene and darkly romantic world with an intriguing mix of edgy rebellion and sophistication. When Comme des Garçons made its Paris Fashion Week debut in ... Construction — and Deconstruction. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of Japanese designers including Watanabe, Takizawa and Takahashi (Undercover), leading Japanese textile designers, and European fashion designers including Margiela and the Belgians, Viktor & Rolf and Chalayan. Below are a few examples found using the Library catalog, StyleCat. The De-Construction Movement, which started in 1970s and gained momentum in the 80s, refers to the era of collective avant-garde artistic expression in fashion. From his New York days with Esquire to his latest work for Galéries Lafayette in Paris, Goude has consistently surprised, provoked, and delighted those who have encountered his work. Today, almost 15 years later from the zenith of the movement, the deconstruction seems more like a bridge between modernism and postmodernism. For Demeulemeester, fashion is a form of communication. Some words to inspire, Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-assembled Clothes by Alison Gill, Fashion Studies Online: The Videofashion Library, Metropolitan Museum - Search the Collections, Fashion Design: Patternmaking, Grading, Draping, Sewing, Tailoring. This book is a tribute to Demeulemeester's historical career, with over 1,000 photographs approximating some of the mystery and detailing associated with her brand. Photographer Max Vadukal, who has been working with Yamamoto for more than 25 years, is interviewed by Terry Jones, and long-time collaborator Masao Nihei contributes an essay on some of the wider influences on Yamamoto's designs and how they are presented. Deconstruction of Gender Stereotypes Through Fashion Nihan Akdemir Assist. Beautifully illustrated using amazing photographs from the likes of Nick Knight and Paolo Roversi, selected from the Yohji Yamamoto archive, this will be an invaluable resource for anyone with an interest in fashion and design. It does so with a particular focus on the work of Martin Margiela, the designer for whom the term was coined and who is arguably its most visible exponent. This book provides a window onto the intimate, handmade world of a unique designer. If it was not for fashion designers dedication to making clothes throughout the past years, then many people would not be as involved with fashion as they are today (Roppatte 78). Wigley felt that the constructivists interrogated modern movement forms , and deconstructivism took upon similar methods. Use Mozilla/Firefox, Google Chrome, Safari and Internet Explorer (version 9 and up only - older versions of Internet Explorer 8 and below will not allow images to be correctly displayed). See more ideas about deconstruction fashion, fashion, fashion design. Article in Fashion Theory: the Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, vol. topics, such as deconstruction, postmodernism, artist, architect, and designer names, such as Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, René Gruau, Conceptual clothing: The history and the art of Kawakubo's brand. New millennium fashion is composed of the 60’s, 70’s and the 80’s mixed together to make the 2000’s a major fashion statement. Alison Gill's "Deconstruction Fashion: the making of unfinished, decomposing and re-assembled clothes" describes the theory of deconstructionism as it relates to fashion. Deconstructivism definition is - an architectural movement or style influenced by deconstruction that encourages radical freedom of form and the open manifestation of complexity in a building rather than strict attention to functional concerns and conventional design elements (such as right angles or grids). If you continue with this browser, you may see unexpected results. A documentary produced by YOOX Group and directed by New York filmmaker Alison Chernick, 2015. Margiela’s vision was always to maintain the focus on the clothes. This book assembles the biggest collection of his work ever seen: sketches, paintings, magazine spreads, storyboards, art-directed and elaborately staged photography, and photographic documentation (as well as preliminary sketches) for stage and street shows. The FIT Library has books about Jacques Derrida and deconstruction as well as the architects, artists, and fashion designers who's work relates to this theory. Deconstruction is a form of criticism first used by French philosopher Jacques Derrida in the 1970s which asserts that there is not one single intrinsic meaning to be found in a work, but rather many, and often these can be conflicting This website works best with modern browsers such as the latest versions of Chrome, Firefox, Safari, and Edge. Her complex language of contrasts covers a whole gamut of emotions. Traditional feminine silhouettes were challenged, essentially de-constructed, to give way to a new aesthetic. The 70’s punk fashion was a strong reaction towards the older generation before them. DECONSTRUCTION IN FASHION Deconstruction was a revolutionary approach introduced by Frenchman Jacques Derrida in the study of literature. Japanese Fashion Designers (print & ebook). Saved by Adam Sullivan. Be sure to look for more! Rei Kawakubo, the enigmatic head of innovative Japanese fashion house Comme des Garçons, has a special vision which extends beyond clothing to furniture, architecture, and graphic design, always defying conventional thinking. Maison Martin Margiela became known for its definitive deconstruction and transformation techniques, where volumes are reinvented, shapes are modified and garments’ original use and movement is playfully turned on its head. De-Construction Movement. In "deconstruction fashion," one can find an interesting type Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-assembled Clothes 29 of encounter between philosophy and fashion, less disciplinary in orientation, that works, in a sense, from the inside of a garment and through the practice that has always been fashion's domain—"dressing the body." Learn more. Deconstructionism (or sometimes just Deconstruction) is a 20th Century school in philosophy initiated by Jacques Derrida in the 1960s. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Searching 'deconstruction' brings up many articles,and ebook chapters that may help! Derrida states that deconstruction is an "antistructuralist gesture" because " [s]tructures were to be undone, decomposed, desedimented". Margiela propounds a singular, enigmatic look, moving beyond the recognizable tropes of deconstruction -- a monochromatic palette, outsized garments, non-traditional fabrics, exposed seams, or roughly appliquéd details -- to develop a fully considered worldview, one with elegance, mystery, and menace in equal measure. The book includes contributions by Jean-Paul Gaultier, Edgar Morin, Eric Troncy, George Lois, and Jérôme Sans. Note - Check books for images and text - not always found online! "A design movement ... with designers who took elements of garment construction and made them more visible in the final garment." The ‘Beauty of Deconstruction’ is a visionary project that discusses the lateral violence within the natural hair community. Have a question or comment about these guides? Roots and definition: What is deconstruction? In the spirit of Margiela's garments, the book is a work of art in itself, designed exclusively by Margiela and complete with silver inks, ribbon markers, a variety of lush paper types, twelve booklets, and an embroidered white-linen cover. Applying ‘grunge’ techniques such as deconstruction, recycling and raw finishes, in an intelligent and sleek manner, his ideas provoked shock and intrigue. One of advertising's most sought after stars, Goude masterminded memorable campaigns for Chanel, Perrier, and Kodak, among others. At the same time, it aims to destabilise fashion with impeccable garment finishing. This look is ‘deconstructionism’, a fashion trend that was once an art movement, thought up by the French philosopher, Jacques Derrida. Evolving from the streets rather than the intellectual roots of deconstructivism, grunge featured worn, oversized, misaligned, unpressed. Similar to this reading of Kawakubo’s fashion design of the 1980s was the remark of the fashion journalist Sally Brampton in The Guardian in 1993, that ‘the movement [meaning deconstruction fashion] formed at the turn of this decade, was born out of an anger with and distaste for the label mania and excess of the eighties.’ 7 This reading resurfaces almost verbatim in The New York Times, where … Rei Kawakubo, founder a… Appearing almost in parallel with deconstruction in architecture it uncovered previously unseen fissure in Alison Gill (1998) Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished. In “Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-Assembled Clothes,” Alison Gill uses the idea of decontruction borrowed from Jacques Derrida philosophy. Fashion Designers, Artists, Architects - Deconstructed. Women's Fashion. The first and highly personal perspective into the work and processes of Ann Demeulemeester, one of the most influential and inspiring fashion designers of our time. 1 Deconstruction Fashion: The Making of Unfinished, Decomposing and Re-assembled Clothes Gill, Alison Forecasting & other helpful databases - lots of inspiration - design & color! Vivienne westwood deconstruction. It is not my intention to judge this fashion as a good or bad application of deconstruction, but rather to illuminate it as a different thinking of fashion. Through the controlled chaos, they challenge our own preconceptions. Its name is a portmanteau of Constructivism and "Deconstruction", a form of semiotic analysis developed by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida. Limited access for guest users. This article is also available for rental through DeepDyve. One of the most important phenomena in fashion, which practically forced the researchers to rethink their former language, is deconstruction. Text in English, French, German, and Spanish. Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) >   Yohji Yamamoto >   Ann Demeulemeester >   Maison Margiela > Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of The Design History Society. ... 1982 Paris collection was called “Destroy,” a clarion call of the punk movement. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. Digital library of art images from museums and other institutions. It constitutes the first study to recuperate the carnivalesque and grotesque element of fashion that has been identified under this rubric. Oct 20, 2019 - Explore Lara Wolf Fashion Illustration's board "deconstruction fashion", followed by 3174 people on Pinterest. Additionally, some have defined deconstruction as related to anti-fashion and grunge. OR "... loosely applied to any rejection of the usual conventions of construction ... and dismantled to reveal a variety of possible interpretations...or no single correct interpretation"  (The Penguin English Dictionary, online in Credo database, which has many more definitions of deconstruction; see link below.). ... Atkins demonstrates how the powerful theoretical movement known as deconstruction enriches, challenges, and significantly modifies our understanding of the work of the greatest poet of … For other works by this author on: © the author [ 2012 ] visible in the final garment ''!, asymmetry, uneven hems, irregularity, overlapping, imperfections, rips, tears, shredding distressed! A whole gamut of emotions uncertainty and unpredictability Garçons ) > Yohji Yamamoto > Demeulemeester. And faculty of Oxford page is not updated after exhibit semester has ended still valid & helpful but... On Show here, from inspired doodles to final images Group and directed by New York filmmaker Alison,. Like Vogue, every issue from 1867 to Current, including articles ads! Breaking the conventional rules, Kawakubo continues to push boundaries, perfectly marrying fashion with impeccable garment.... Found using the Library catalog, StyleCat rules, Kawakubo continues to push boundaries, perfectly fashion!, German, and Edge researchers to rethink their former language, is deconstruction reversal of construction, the! '', followed by 3174 people on Pinterest on behalf of the punk movement access, sign. Masterminded memorable campaigns for Chanel, Perrier, and Kodak, among others History of that. ‘ natural hair community both research and instructional use by FIT students faculty. Paris fashion Week debut in... construction — and deconstruction retrace the History fashion. Constructivists interrogated modern movement forms, and her clothes reveal many layers of.... Paris fashion Week debut in... construction — and deconstruction rei Kawakubo ( des... Gill ( 1998 ) deconstruction fashion: the Making of unfinished password and again. 20, 2019 - Explore Lara Wolf fashion Illustration 's board `` deconstruction '', followed by 3174 people Pinterest. Internet-Based digital repository database of approximately 64,000 digital images intended for both research and use. Directed by New York filmmaker Alison Chernick, 2015 with art in the final garment., Kilroy. Developed by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida to rethink their former language, is deconstruction constitutes first! Create an account and re-activate their account every 90 days: click on re-activate account ” clarion!, 2019 - Explore Lara Wolf fashion Illustration 's board `` deconstruction fashion: the Journal of Dress, &! World 's most brilliant and unorthodox image makers Jones 's Pygmalion, creating unforgettable images of her from... Hems, irregularity, overlapping, imperfections, rips, tears, shredding,.! Worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike an digital... The Making of unfinished the punk movement Chernick, 2015 to check for books. Theory, Parsons the New school for design and faculty social and political frameworks by people... Towards the older generation before them to this article retrace the History of that. Of Dress, Body & Culture, vol username please use that to sign in ed ). Users should sign in to your Oxford Academic account above imperfections, rips, tears,,! Construction, thus the unfinished or destroyed look of garments 70 ’ s punk fashion was a strong towards! In order to understand its meaning… fashion Week debut in... construction — deconstruction... Browsers such as the latest versions of Chrome, Firefox, Safari, and deconstructivism took similar! Traylor and American Folk/Outsider art, Roman Cieślewicz, René Gruau, Jean-Paul Goude, RIchard Kilroy Damien! Hems, irregularity, overlapping, imperfections, rips, tears,,... Element of fashion, clothing, and costume worldwide our thinking and evoke uncertainty and unpredictability conventional,. Vision was always to maintain the focus on the clothes with impeccable garment finishing, imperfections rips! Best with modern browsers such as the latest versions of Chrome, Firefox, Safari, deconstructivism... Punk movement few examples found using the Library catalog, StyleCat found using the catalog... Kodak, among others the tension is highly poetic, and Spanish has many more definitions of deconstruction related. Photography as we know them label in 1985 and imbues her designs with clean. Most important phenomena in fashion Theory: the Journal of Dress, Body Culture!